China__Jason D Ham__Euphoniumist

China Travels :: Bulgaria/Macedonia ::

China Journal
This is the chronicle of the trip I took to Beijing, China, in October, 2004. It was the first visit to the city of Beijing by an American Euphonium player since Dr. Brian Bowman visited the city in 1988 as a member the United States Air Force Band.

Saturday, October 16, & Sunday, October 17, 2004

Saturday, for all intents and purposes, never had a beginning, because Friday night never had an end. In my usual haste to leave for overseas, I found it far easier to stay up Friday night and finish packing, rather than take the risk of getting up and seeing light outside my bedroom window on Saturday morning. With a scheduled departure time from West Point of 4:00am, had I seen light, it would have been a real pickle for me.

Nevertheless, at 3:45am, I rolled into the Band Building parking lot and found LTC Rotondi already there. Joined by Mary Kay (vocalist) and Wayne (saxophone) a few minutes later, we were soon on our way to Newark Liberty International Airport. I can't rightly say that I remember much about the ride there, considering I was asleep for about 3/4ths of it. However, I do remember getting to the airport, going through security, and getting to the gate, only to fall asleep there for another hour or so. Finally on our way around 8am, we had a quick layover in Chicago. Being only about an hour and a half long flight, I don't remember much of it, either, as I slept through it, too.

It was indeed a weird feeling to see the marquis at Chicago O'Hare International Airport say "Beijing", as I wondered when, if ever, I would have the opportunity to perform in the orient. As I boarded the plane, I couldn't help but wonder what was in store for me in a mysterious land so very far away.

The flight itself was difficult but amazing. I was shocked to see that our route was to take us across the North Pole to get to the orient. I guess it makes sense: the shortest route to China is, after all, across the North Pole. It was interesting to see the broken ice below that seemed to extend to the horizon. To see pictures of a place like that on the Discovery Channel is one thing; to actually look out your window and see the polar ice cap is something totally different.

After a quick jaunt across Siberia, we landed in Beijing - all told, 13 1/2 hours after we departed Chicago. It wasn't difficult to see that China is the world's most populous place, with nearly a billion and a half people in its border and counting. Beijing accounts for a mere 14 million of those, still about 7 million people shy of being the nation's most populous city. Nevertheless, we exited the plane and found ourselves waiting in subsequent lines to pass through customs. For a communist country, you would have thought that customs would have been far more difficult.

After we finally exited the airport, we were met my Rufing, our contact, and an entourage that joined him from the band here in Beijing. I have never in my life been treated as royalty, but I imagine that this is about as close as I will get. All four of us that had been traveling together were welcomed with flowers that bordered on perfection. (The 18 auburn-colored roses that sit next to me as I write this testify to this welcome.)

We very quickly made it out to the van and car that were to usher us to the hotel in downtown Beijing. There were people everywhere - on foot, on bike, and not to mention, right beside us in the cars. It was interesting to find out that about 10 years ago, only 10% of the private population owned vehicles; today, that statistic has blown up to 60%. Of course, the roads have not kept up, and the air quality has faired even worse. Nevertheless, as we dodged through traffic, I think all of us in the van were holding on a bit tighter than normal.

After arriving to our very upscale hotel around 4:30pm, we departed with our sponsors for the short ride to dinner at 5:30pm. It was a neat experience, as we met many of the higher-ups in the Chinese Army Band Program. The dinner was exquisite, filled with duck, pork, and much of the best of Chinese cuisine. What was perhaps the most memorable part of the evening was the fact that the Chinese love to make toasts, and to that end, toast a shot of clear grain alcohol that is - get this - 53% alcohol by volume! Rest assured that by the 8th toast, many of us that had made the trip were raising some eyebrows at one another. (Grain alcohol of that strength burns a bit on the way down?) What's more, once the toasting started to subside (I think that we were past 15), THEN came the beer.

It was amazing to see how the language barrier was knocked down, even without the translator! Their hospitality seems to dwarf anything that I could have concieved, and with their warm welcome, they seem glad to have us.

Hopefully all of us can get up and get going in the morning, as tomorrow begins the real reason we're here - to share some wonderful music with wonderful people.

Monday, October 18, 2004

Day two here in Beijing dawned hazy with the ever-present reminder that the air pollution situation here is really out of control. As the day wore on, I discovered that I'm finding it harder and harder to simply breathe the air here. Nevertheless, after a quick shower, I made my way downstairs to the second floor for a true Chinese breakfast experience. Suffice it to say that breakfast here is more like you would expect lunch to be?somehow wonton soup in the morning doesn't do it for me. However, I did find the traditional fried egg down the table, and made my good use of a few of those.

By quarter 'till nine in the morning, we were on our way to meet the band. It was truly a sight to see when all of the gentlemen we had met the night before introduced us in uniform before a wind band seated in the same attire. They are an impressive sight, and are congenial though soft - spoken. Whether in earnest or not (and I believe them to be), the band at large does seem happy to have us here.

After a quick warm up with the band on "La Forza del Destino" (and that IS a warm-up after not playing for almost 48 hours!), I (with Wayne and Mary Kay) made my way over to another building in the band complex here that housed several practice rooms. Surprisingly, we were being given practice time with the accompanist that we are to perform with on Thursday night. She is a nice person and a good player, but I immediately found it interesting that she was sight-reading the music that had been sent to her about a month before. However, as I put two and two together, I realized that she hadn't gotten the music that I had sent her. In fact, I sent her the music in a three-ring notebook that had an included CD; neither the notebook nor the CD had made it to her. Rather, she had copies of the music that had been mailed, each page of which contained a bright red stamp that undoubtedly signaled that the music was "safe" to enter China.

After rehearsing for a bit, we joined LTC Rotondi and the band officers for lunch in the band dining hall. I should add here that the People's Liberation Army Band is about 240 members, which are divided into three ensembles of 80 members a piece. They are all quartered on the band premises, and live a very communal lifestyle, not to my surprise.

After (the amazing) lunch, we were all led to the top of one of the band quarters, where we were each given a room and told that we had 30 minutes to sleep or rest as we chose. With air conditioning, a bed, and a television, I was set. But, before long, it was back to rehearsal with the band.

The afternoon rehearsal was filled with Wayne and Mary Kay, each rehearsing their work with the band. I must admit that the band has its good moments, but must put more focus on listening (especially in light of the intonation). To their credit, however, much of their work today included sight-reading. I have come to appreciate their effort, however, as you can imagine that 55 years of communist rule really hasn't helped the cause of the arts here, most especially in the military. However, I was reminded at dinner around 6pm that this is the precise reason we're here: to inspire them on to better performances in the future.

Following dinner, we were escorted around Beijing for about two hours, in which we visited Tien amen Square. I must say that to stand in the very spot were Chinese students were massacred in 1989 was humbling. The site itself is awesome, being approximately a mile on each side. It is filled with the testaments of Communism, and not surprisingly, to the foundation of the People's Republic of China in 1949. It is a beautiful and strangely frightening place, so long as you can pull yourself away from the nagging peddlers (of everything!) long enough to grasp where you are and what you are seeing.

After about two hours of trying to consume the Beijing air (and it is VERY VERY BAD), we made our way back to the hotel. After a quick shower and some sleep, I'm the first up for tomorrow's rehearsal. I hope and pray that I nail everything!

Tuesday, October 19, 2004

Today was quite a bit of a blow as it began with me in front of the People's Liberation Army Band of China. Who would have thought in a million years that I would ever see myself in such a position? Nevertheless, it was a reality, halfway around the world, that I was here and getting to play!

After my portion of the morning rehearsal, I had my second rehearsal with my accompanist. Whereas the first day had really been something frightening (she was sightreading!!!), today was the exact opposite. I was amazed with the change - yesterday I wondered if I was going to get to perform my works at the conservatory, and today my accompanist sounded as if she'd performed the music two or three times. She was amazing!

After the rehearsal, we again broke for lunch, and found ourselves back in the resting room for about a half hour. I can get used to taking two hours for lunch, and then being forced to take a nap!

During the afternoon rehearsal, I was fascinated to listen to the band struggle through the music from the Broadway play "Thoroughly Modern Mille". At first listen, it was simply a band struggling through notes and rhythms, but as I considered the situation, I realized that they not only had not heard this particular music, but had probably never heard the music from a Broadway play - EVER. It was simply amazing to consider this fact, especially when this words from this music talk about how a girl from Kansas risked it all to make it in New York. Were the Chinese more aware of this music, perhaps we would not have the chance to perform it: the band here doesn't allow women to be wind players, and thus, sit in the band. (It does allow them to be pianists and composers, however.)

A short time later, we made our way to a large indoor market that, for all intents and purposes, was the mother-load of flea markets. Perhaps I exaggerate; it really was a nice place. Nevertheless, we found ourselves wondering around taking interest in the most unique things, and as we did, our guide told us that bargaining was the rule of thumb here. Sure enough, the price on everything was soft, made more so by the fact that we were from the West. I soon found myself heckling over an awesome porcelain tea set. It wasn't long before my walking in and out of their booth and standing firm on my offers had worked the seller down from 500? (about $40) to 350? (about $28). While the seller probably still made a killing on me (to make it in China probably costs around $4-$5), I felt better knowing I had heckled somewhat of a victory in a foreign country. After a few additional purchases and a lot more heckling (and I cannot reveal these purchases, as some of the recipients may be reading!), we headed back to the hotel for dinner.

We all took notice of a funny thing at dinner. Without a doubt, the Chinese have been more than hospitable to us. They've welcomed us everywhere that we've been, and have really "rolled out the red carpet" at our every arrival. At dinner, we noticed that our table was more full of food than all the others, even those that also had four people or more at their particular table. What was interesting to note was that we also had two waitresses constantly starring at our table at all times, ready to step in and fill our glasses or replenish our plates. They stood about 8 or 9 feet away, but they were always there. What was weird was that this level of service seemed to be reserved for us only, and the Chinese that were in the restaurant as patrons never saw such attention. Unquestionably, the service here really has been outstanding, but I have to wonder if it would be the same if we were not Westerners.

I came back to my room about and hour and a half ago, and have since called in to WISW radio in Columbia (SC) and have talked with the morning crew there. It's always great to talk to them, and as Mom prompted a unique radio interview, I had to take advantage of calling them from Beijing.

Tomorrow is a bit more of a "touristy" day, with a rehearsal only in the morning, followed by a visit to the Forbidden City.

Wednesday, October 20, 2004

I have to begin by noting what a wonderful trip it has been thus far. I continue to be shocked at our royal treatment, from the band hall to the hotel to being carted everywhere around Beijing. I sincerely hope that West Point can host some or all of these band members and give them the same amazing treatment that we are receiving here in their host nation.

Today began with a warm up in one of the other rehearsal halls on the premises of the People's Liberation Army Band's property. It was nice to get a warm-up in a room all to myself, as the conditions thus far have been somewhat cramped. (I guess that I should expect this in a nation of 1.4 billion people.) I should note that, on the wall behind the podium, there was a picture in the room of Bill Clinton conducting the band of the PLA. Hmmmmm....

Not much later, I was in front of the band again, working on the 3rd Movement of the Cosma Concerto. I have to admit that it was a lot of fun, especially since the band's competence on the piece has risen dramatically. I was a bit surprised to receive applause from both the band members and the spectators at the end of the rehearsal, as this was the first time that I had heard applause in the hall since we've been here. They seem to be warming up to me!

After rehearsal, we were again treated to the amazing lunches that have yet to cease in amazing us. Today's lunch was filled with conversation about our various band programs. I was not only interested in learning about the rank structure of the People's Liberation Army Band, but found out that the officers did not enjoy as significant a difference in the pay as in the United States Military Bands. As Zhao (our primary translator from Chicago?originally from Beijing and was in this band) told us, the difference is shockingly little between officer and enlisted pay here.

Also at lunch, we learned that the Central Conservatory of Music suffered some sort of power failure yesterday, and that it doesn't look as though it will be fixed in time for our scheduled rehearsals in the morning nor the performance in the evening. So, it looks like we won't be performing at the Conservatory as planned, but we will most likely get to perform our works in the masterclasses on Friday morning with the band members present. I look forward to this opportunity just the same.

After lunch we headed for the Forbidden City, site of the Imperial Palace of the Ming and Qing Dynasties here in China. The structures inside this fortress were built from 1406-1420, and total some 8,000 rooms. It is without question one of the single most amazing sites I've seen, and to try to describe it here apart from photos is almost impossible.

It's been another long day, in spite of the fact that it was simply amazing. Some rain has settled into the city now and has cleaned out the air enough to make out the buildings in the distance (and it's night!), as the smog has dissipated somewhat. I thought that the cup of coffee that I went out an purchased was going to be able to keep me awake (first coffee in 4 days!!!), but it's doing just the opposite.

Tomorrow is a busy day, but I look forward to all that it will bring!

Thursday, October 21, 2004

Undoubtedly, today has been one of the most memorable days that I've ever had. What a whirlwind of activity filled the day! It actually began rather slowly, with me enjoying what was the first real sunrise that I've seen here in China. The air has been so bad throughout the week here, but last night some rain and a cold front cleared the air and allowed me to see the beautiful horizon and the buildings around our area. After checking some e-mail and getting some breakfast, it was off to the band hall.

I was fortunate to get a room all to myself again this morning for a full warm-up. It was nice to get some time alone to finally get a full warm-up here in China. After joining the last few minutes of rehearsal, it was nice to break for lunch again.

The lunch conversation was the first real talk that we've had with the Chinese about our presence with the band. As they told me, there has never been a guest euphonium soloist, a guest vocalist, or a guest saxophonist with this band. There has never been a guest American military band conductor, either, although Frank Battisti did make a trip to Beijing to work with this band over 10 years ago. Of course, this is an amazing honor, considering that the band was founded on July 10, 1952!

After lunch (and the daily after-lunch nap), LTC Rotondi presented a masterclass on the wind band and ensemble technique. It was interesting to be in the room, as he requested Wayne and I to play cold. That was nice, especially considering that the majority of the 240 members of this band were present (not to mention the former head General of the entire PLA Band Program!)

After the class, we again went shopping, and this was one of the most amazing experiences I've ever had. The rule of the market here, again, is BARGAIN, BARGAIN, BARGAIN! I personally purchased two Kung Fu outfits for myself, and was happy to negotiate quite a deal!!! These outfits are the most comfortable and nicest-looking tops that I now own, and are just what I was looking for in regards to performing. Oftentimes, I find that some of my performing outfits just aren't comfortable. These are perfect. The seller started by trying to sell me one at 850? (about $100). By the time all was said and done, I had negotiated him down to 500? (about $60) for two of them. AWESOME!

The thing that was most amazing about this was the fact that the sellers in this flea-market type of operation would clobber you to buy their merchandise, no matter how many times you told them "No". They would stay with you until they were dangerously far away from their own goods, and by that time you'd already come under the jurisdiction of another annoying seller. I should add that when we left the market, the number of panhandlers and people begging for money was STAGGERING. The most amazing thing I saw was a mother who was instructing her little girl (no more than five years of age) on how to nag me for money. It was amazing, and the little girl had nagging down to an art.

We ate dinner at the first "dine out" establishment that we've been to, and the food was splendid. We were joined by our two interpreters, who had kindly helped us bargain in the market. What's more, one of them was a euphonium player in the PLA band, and by the end of the meal, we began a conversation on euphonium technique and pedagogy that amazed me. Without a doubt, they are hungry for as much information on peformance as they can possibly get from us. Our conversation eventually wound back to the van and then to our next stop, which, thankfully, as we had mostly beer with the meal, was a Starbucks! Allen, which was this euphonium player's English name, was filled with questions about performance, which included everything from breathing to brand names of instruments. It was fascinating to talk with him, and I have every hope of not only keeping in touch with him, but also including him in the article that I plan to send to the Journal of the International Tuba and Euphonium Association. My experiences here, as I am noticing, seem to be unprecedented, especially in consideration of the euphonium's advancement on a global scale.

Well, tomorrow I have the chance to pick up in this conversation of the euphonium where I left off, only now we get to add many more from the brass section from across the organization. I feel as though tomorrow will be one of the most single important days of my career, and I am zealous with the hope of helping the course of the euphonium's development here in the orient. I can only hope that, years from now, I look at a euphonium competition or a conference and can greet friends that are there from the People's Republic of China.

There's much to be ready for tomorrow, so I will try to fall asleep with the preparation for this most important presentation fresh in my mind.

Saturday, October 23, 2004

I admit that I was a bit pooped last night, so I'll quickly recap Friday.

Yesterday was a typical day until the afternoon, which was my masterclass with the euphonium and tuba players in the Chinese Band. It was an amazing experience, and I let the participants in the class lead it with their questions. It began with a question about the fundamentals of sound production, and I was happy to oblige this by playing recordings of many of the current greats in the world of euphonium discography.

What an experience it was to watch some of the players in that room hear a euphonium recording for the first time! They all listened in amazement as I told them about who and how I try to imitate in the concept of sound. As I told them, there is absolutely nothing wrong with imitation; it is the proof of whether we are correctly thinking about what we hear in the recording. What a great moment that was in the rehearsal room yesterday.

The discussion continued about other subjects as led by their questions: what do you do to practice breathing? how do you practice technique? what is your warm-up like? and so on. It was wonderful to give them something to go on, and I can only hope that the seeds that have been planted here will continue to grow through our correspondence and contact in the future. Perhaps I will even be able to return to China to help this process along.

The evening concluded with down time back at the hotel, which Wayne, Mary Kay, and I took advantage of. We actually crossed the street and enjoyed some refreshments at the Mariott Hotel. I had a comical experience when I went to the front desk and tried to change $100 into Yuen (?). I was asked if I had a room, and of course, I didn't think and answered yes, room 1005 (only this room was across the street!). Before I could correct my answer, the young ladies at the desk were changing my money. Oh well.

Being tired from the day, I fell asleep quickly upon arriving back at the hotel.

Today was the busiest day apart from the band that we've had here in China. It began earlier than normal, as we had about a 45 minute ride to the Great Wall of China.

The Great Wall is unquestionably one of the most amazing things I've ever seen. Built between about 250-200 B.C., it is one of the seven wonders of the world. It is a full work-out to walk to the top of the portion that we were on, however(known as the BaDaLing portion), and some of the Wall just goes straight up. Pictures only can do justice to what I'm describing here, and to the amazing structure that the Wall is.

After the visit to the Wall, we stopped on the outskirts of Beijing to enjoy a nice lunch at yet another amazing restaurant. On the way into the parking lot, however, the driver of the van we were in cut off a bicyclist and caused him to crash into the van. Fortunately, the bicyclist was not hurt, but did stop to give a few words to the driver. They consoled him quickly, and sent him on his way. It could have been a terrible situation, but thankfully, was diffused quickly (and before any money started changing hands!).

After lunch, we visited the tombs of the 13 Ming Emperors. While it was impressive, perhaps it would have been best to have seen them before the Great Wall of China, as the comparison was somewhat skewed from our earlier day's views. What WAS indeed amazing here, however, was to think of the fact that these vaults were completed and buried some 250 feet into the ground before Columbus was even born!

We didn't return to the hotel until about 4:30pm, when Mary Kay and I decided to go shopping for the evening. Given the strong status of the dollar here in China, it made shopping for expensive items cheap and the bargaining exciting.

Tomorrow morning (Sunday) there's another rehearsal, before we enjoy some down time in the afternoon!

Tuesday, October 26, 2004

I have unfortunately been remiss in writing on Sunday and Monday, so I will catch up here, on Tuesday.

Sunday began with a rehearsal in the morning, followed by an afternoon off. The band does not normally rehearse on Sunday, but with guests in town, this seemed to be appropriate. I have to admit that I cannot find any rehearsal on a Sunday morning appropriate, as my beliefs have me elsewhere at this time. Nevertheless, the band came to rehearsal ready to play, in spite of being tired even with Saturday off.

Sunday afternoon was interesting, as we had the chance to visit the Emperor's Summer Palace here in Beijing. Just like the Great Wall, words can do but little to tell of this amazing place. Only photographs can do the detail and magnificence of this place any degree of justice.

Monday turned out to be busier than expected, as we knew that this would be the last chance we would really have to explore Beijing. It was filled with rehearsal, both in the morning and the afternoon, and after rehearsal, we again set out to do some shopping. However, before we left the band building, the euphonium section invited me out to dinner with them. I gladly accepted.

At about 5:30 we departed the hotel (just after returning from shopping), and met the euphonium section at a fine Korean restaurant. It was nice to walk in the room and see familiar faces, in spite of the language barrier. What then transpired in that restaurant is something that I can never ever forget.

The people in the room were all part of the euphonium section of the band, consisting of Sun Tao (9 years in the band), Chung Zi Gung (32 years in the band!), and Allen (Chinese name: Wang Wie Nan, with 3 years in the band). I quickly learned that we were to be joined by China's only euphonium teacher, Mr. Bi Chang An.

In the interim, I had the chance to question the section about the euphonium's history in China, and I was confirmed in my questions when Bi Chang An arrived to our little room. It seems as if the euphonium's presence in China began somewhere around 1947, with the founding of a wind band that was designed to support the activity of a political unit known as the Demonstrator's Party. Prior to that, little is known of the euphonium's development in China, even amongst those who have had contact with the first teachers of the instrument here. At best guess, it seems, the euphonium may have been brought here by the Russians, possibly from a military band tradition there.

From the Demonstrator's Party came China's first real teacher of the euphonium, a man by the name of Fu Ji Hen. Apparently, he was one of the first members of the People's Liberation Army Band, which was founded on July 10, 1952 (about 3 1/2 years after the takeover of the Communist Party - October 1, 1949). Following Mr. Hen were two teachers by the names of Bai Yu Tong and Gu Wen De, both of which were his students. In this time, there was an establishment of a music school for the Band of the PLA, which employed full-time teachers for each instrument, including the euphonium. To the best of my understanding, both Mr. Tong and Mr. De taught in this capacity until 1987.

In that year, Mr. Bi Chang An took over as the only teacher of the euphonium both in Beijing and in China. Bi Chang had been in the PLA Band prior to his appointment, and since then, has had some 400 private euphonium students. Presently, Bi Chang teaches seven days a week, seeing students in the public school system on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. On an average week, he will visit three different schools. On Wednesday, he teaches the members of the Air Force Band here in Beijing (although the Army Band is the only professional band in Beijing and in China). On Saturday and Sunday, he sees his 20 private students, which include the members of the PLA Band (which are as young as 14 years of age!).

It is safe to say that the euphonium's development in China apart from Beijing has been painstakingly slow, if not altogether nonexistant. In my time in that room last night, I had a most distinctive feel that my presence here is appreciated, as they rely on moments like last night to usher the instrument along. In other words, the field here is ripe for continued contact and visits to the country. As I was told last night, the last American Euphonium Soloist to reach Beijing was Dr. Brian Bowman, when he visited Beijing with the United States Air Force Band in 1988.

I have the highest hopes that as China continues to open up to the West, the euphonium will proliferate right along with advanced wind, brass, and percussion ensemble techniques. Obviously, the greatest threat to this will continue to be the interference with available recordings and sheet music by the Communist Government, so the only way to combat this is to be IN the country. As I have been heard in my expressed desire to return to Beijing, I can only hope that this comes sooner rather than later.

Not long after our amazing meeting, I had the chance to enjoy (of all things) a fine cup of Starbuck's Coffee in a place known as "Lotus Lane", a very westernized portion of Beijing that sits just a few blocks away from the rear entrance of the Forbidden City. This is an amazing place and the beginning of what westerners know to be "Bar Street". It surrounds a small lake that was formed when the builders of the Forbidden City created a man-made hill as a garden for the Emperor of China (somewhere in the Ming Dynasty). It forms an amazing feature in a city that is otherwise flat, and rises some 500 feet above the Forbidden City.

As the night is late, it's indeed time for bed. I cannot describe the excitement for tomorrow that continues to build in my mind.

Tuesday, October 26, 2004

Today began at the Concert Hall at the Chinese National Library here in Beijing. After a brisk warm-up, I stood on stage in the wonderful concert hall and had the chance to test-run the Concerto for the performance. The rehearsal was short, and afforded us time to arrive at our lunch location early for our farewell dinner.

We arrived at the same Korean restaurant that we were at the night before (ironically), and found that our reservation had not been received. This was actually a blessing, as they set up a long table for us in the atrium, which produced an amazing backdrop for this exchange. The meal was followed by and exchange of gifts from both bands - West Point and the PLA Band. I was most delighted to receive a beautiful image of the Great Wall. Having seen it last week will leave me with so many wonderful memories of not only that structure, but the amazing hospitality that I have had here in China.

After a lazy afternoon, it was off to the concert hall around 6:00 only to find it completely closed and locked for our performance at 7:30. We did finally get in around 6:30 and found it to be an icebox. Nevertheless, the show was on an hour later, but not before a great photo shoot with the band. They marveled at our uniforms, of course, as they'd not seen them once in our previous 10 days there.

When I entered the stage on the program's second half, I was amazed that the nervousness that always seems to be present (even if only in a small way) was not there. The moment was clear, and as I see it, historic. I must say that the performance went well, and that the band came into form in fine fashion. I was blown away by the roar that came from the crowd at the last note, and I will never forget the way they cheered me on.

I joined the band after this point in the program, and had the great fortune to get to perform "Thoroughly Modern Millie", "The Official West Point March", "Good News from Beijing Reaches the Frontier", and "The Stars and Stripes Forever" with the band. I must say that playing "Good News" affected me greatly, as did "Stars and Stripes", as the gravity of what was happening on stage hit me to my core. I can only hope that those that look back on what has happened here in China will see the irony of "Good News" well into the future.

After the performance, we had the chance to return to the band complex and have drinks with the band. Not only did that grain alcohol show up, but so too did the many toasts to each other and our hopes for the future. (The word "Gambe", or "Bottoms up", appeared as well... OUCH!) I will not long forget this night, and especially how the euphonium players took to me and I them.

With my head still spinning (from a bit more than the whirlwind night, if you know what I mean), I will try to get two or three hours sleep before we head to the airport in the morning. While I look forward to returning to the amazing United States of America, a little piece of me will stay in Beijing, hoping for a return to again work with these amazing people. They are wonderful beyond comprehension, and I can only trust that the seeds of growth that have been planted here (both for the euphonium and beyond) will grow well into the future, nourished by return trips to this wondrous land.